- On my vest, I cut away a strip of fabric, minus the seam allowance,
from the front openings, equal to the finished width of the buttonhole
band. The cut width of the inner band includes a seam allowance. The
outer band has no seam allowance, since it is bias-bound. Determine
the cut widths of your bands and placement of buttonholes. Before
cutting the bands, block-fuse sections of fabric with a no-stretch
weft-insertion knit fusible. It is much easier to accurately rotary
cut narrow bands from pre-fused fabric.
- Strips of silk organza make perfect "stays" for the buttonhole band.
Both sides of the band will need to be "stayed." You will have a stack
of four layers of fabric (organza, interfaced band, interfaced band,
organza). Hand-baste these four layers together. You will have
pre-determined the size and placement of the buttonhole openings
from your pattern. Mark stitching line exactly down center length.
Buttonhole openings are marked as cross-lines (figure A).
- Begin sewing band. Reduce stitch length to 2mm. At 1/2" before first
buttonhole mark, reduce stitch length to 1.5mm. Stitch to mark, then
backstitch 1/2". Do not cut threads. Jump to other end of buttonhole
mark. Drop needle 1/2" beyond second mark. Backstitch to mark, then
stitch forward. Return stitch length to 2mm. Repeat these steps until
entire band is stitched.
- Remove hand-basting. Press as stitched, then open out bands and press
flat. Outside edge of inner band is sewn to vest, and inside edge of
inner band is sewn to lining.