Combining Pattern Pieces 

Try these tips for
combining patterns to accomplish many combinations of fashion style. 

Sleeve Tips:
To create a close-fitting garment, use a set-in sleeve. Dolman sleeves are best 
when using fabric with a big print because the continuance of dolman sleeve 
design won't display obvious breaks in the fabric print. 

Combining Jacket/Coat Patterns
Match up center fronts when combining patterns for a coat or jacket. Pin the
patterns together so that all desired pattern elements are showing. If pattern
edges overlap in a boxy manner, create smooth curves by placing paper
underneath pattern and penciling in a curve. To avoid cutting up favorite
patterns, place a piece of sheer white paper over the combined pattern design
and trace to create one new pattern. 

V-neck from round neck
To create a V-neckline from a round, jewel neckline, determine how far down you
want V-neck to open and use this measurement to alter the pattern. Measure
and mark a diagonal line from each top side of the existing pattern neckline
toward the center of the pattern. Fold the pattern at the lines to determine if 
the V-neck is the right length. Be careful to keep the top of the original 
neckline to prevent the shoulders from slipping out of place. 

Collars
To change the collar on any pattern, the rule to remember is to always keep the
neck of the collar the same size as the original neck of the pattern, 
regardless of what you do to the collar. Try scalloping the edges or making a 
stand-up collar instead of one that lies down. 

How about facings?
To fatten up those skimpy facings, cut them 1" wider than the pattern. For
the back facing, in addition to making it 1" wider, try making it 5" deep. 

Fuller multipannel Skirts
To make a multi-paneled skirt pattern fuller, add inches to each panel of the
pattern. To find the appropriate number of inches, divide the total number of
inches that will be added to the skirt by the number of panels in the skirt. Lay
each panel pattern on a sheet of newspaper, and use a straight edge to draw
vertical cutting lines at the points where the extra inches will be added. Plan 
to make one cut for every extra desired inch, spacing the cutting lines evenly 
along the pattern panel.   

If adding fullness to the entire skirt, cut on the 
vertical lines, from the bottom of the panel pattern, to within 1/8" of the top 
of the panel. Separate the pieces to accommodate the desired extra inches and 
tape to the newspaper. The newspaper will be incorporated into the panel 
pattern as the added fullness. Use a curved ruler to even out the hem line of 
the panel pattern.   

To add fullness below the hip of the skirt, draw vertical lines, one for each 
added inch, to a point just below the hip of the skirt. Cut from the bottom of 
the pattern panel to the top of the line, then turn the scissors and make a 
horizontal cut to within 1/8" of the side of pattern. The cuts will be 
L-shaped. Separate the pattern pieces to accommodate the added inches and tape 
to the newspaper.  Use a curved ruler to even the hem line of the panel pattern.
 
Adding Fullness to Jackets and Shirts
The L-shaped cut technique described above is also a great trick for adding
fullness to the fronts of jackets and shirts. Make each horizontal part of the
L-shape cut just above the other. Don't forget to even out the hemline of the
pattern. 

Color blocking
Color blocking techniques used on garments can be very slimming and fun. It's
easy to use color blocking on garments that are designed with separate panels,
but you can also use the technique for single panel garments as well by cutting
the pattern into color blocking panels. Look at the pattern and visually 
determine where to place the color blocks panels. Mark the color block panels, 
using straight or curved lines. Always put an "X" on each side of the pattern 
at the new panel lines to serve as a reminder for adding seam allowances. Cut 
the pattern along the new panel lines. Cut and stitch various colors and prints 
of fabric to the new pattern panels to complete the color block technique. 

Reducing Pant Patterns
When reducing pant leg patterns, remember to do the same thing both the outer
and inner leg. For instance, to reduce a pant leg by 1", reduce the seam on the
inner leg by 1/2", then reduce the seam at the outer leg by 1/2". If the total
reduction is made at only the inner or outer seam, the leg will twist. Since the
crotch seam will not be affected by altering a leg pattern, remember to mark all
final adjustments for the pant leg using the crotch seam as a guide. Mark the
reduction on either side of the pattern at the hemline, then draw a diagonal 
line from the crotch seam position to the reduction mark on either side. Do 
this on both the front and back pattern pieces for the leg. TIP: The 
circumference of the pant leg hem is usually at least 13". A circumference 
smaller than this will be too small for an average foot to fit through.   For 
pant patterns without a side seam, make alterations on both sides of the inner 
leg in the manner described above. 

Art darning or stippling looks like free-style machine embroidery. It makes a
wonderful embellishment for jackets, shirts and more. 

Ref http://www.hgtv.com/HGTV/project/0,1158,CRHO_project_11452,00.html