Neefer Sews, Crochets, Crafts, Swims, and Blathers about Kids

Acorns to Oaktrees

March 6th, 2012 at 8:15 pm

New Look 6898

in: General

I made this jacket … um … 10 years ago. This is a great timeless pattern. It’s really too bad that it went out of print so quickly. It’s available at Etsy. Additional images are available at PatternReview.

outfit
Below is the pattern review that I used to have at PR.
Pattern Description: (from Sabrina on PR) Four unlined jackets with neckline variations funnel, hood, v neck and shawl collar; sleeves are one piece. I bought this from the 2002 fall book and it disappear from the later books.

I made the shawl collar version.
boucleJacketFront
Pattern Sizing: 8-18

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes
Were the instructions easy to follow? Sorta. For this view, the instructions jump all over the place, from view to view, and the first time I read through the instructions all the way, I missed the part on inserting the sleeve. Maybe all multiview patterns do that, but this is the first time I’ve had to reread a pattern looking for part of the instructions.

However, construction is very easy.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I have to grade my patterns up, and the fact that they published two fronts, 8/12/16 on one and 10/14/18 on another, made grading up less precise.

There isn’t much ease. My jacket was unlined.

boucleJacketBack
Fabric Used:

A black/blue wool blend boucle knit from JoAnn’s clearance for only $2.88/yd. This was a firm knit with very little crosswise stretch.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:

I graded up to a 22. I don’t know if it was my grading or the pattern, but the shoulders came out big and the armhole small. An error in grading could have done this, but the pattern has very little ease, and maybe it’s supposed to be more fitted in the armhole than I care for. I thought I could help the shoulder misfit out with a shoulderpad, but the armhole isn’t big enough.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

I might sew it again. I like the style, but it doesn’t fit me as well as other jackets have. I’m not enthusiastic about making a shoulder & armhole alteration. If I do manage to lose weight down to a size 18, I’ll probably try it again.

I do recommend it.

Conclusion

It’s easy to sew, and it’s a basic style that should be good for years.


I made this sweater again out of a black raschel knit. This time in view A.


raschelKnit

I had graded up to a 22 last time, but when I measured myself, I was an 18 (high bust 41.5 inches). I had to do a full bust alteration, adding 2″ to the width and 1″ to the length (usual alteration), making a big ol’ dart. I had hesitated to do this. The size 22 fits okay. I’m glad I did it. It’s much more flattering on me to have not only enough room in the bust, but the right size and shape everywhere, too.

I decided not to use the facings. A raschel knit is very lacey. A fat facing doesn’t work.

My book on sewing knits says to use patterns that don’t have darts with raschel knits, but I really need a dart. I’m a DD, and if I don’t use a dart, the garment becomes a big sack. I did a test dart on a scrap and serged off the excess fabric. It isn’t particularly visible. If you look for the dart, you’ll see it, but I had to point it out to my sewing friend before she noticed it. So if you think you need a dart, use a dart on a raschel knit.

The book on knits also recommended sewing the seams twice. For the most part, I used a small zigzag on the sewing machine, then a 4 thread overlock on the serger.

I sewed the sleeves in flat, instead of in the round. It’s just easier to do it this way when you are using the serger. I did some test hems, but I couldn’t get a good looking serged hem, and I couldn’t control the knit well enough to get an even folded hem. So I headed off to Joann’s to get some black lycra binding. Did Joann’s have black lycra binding? NO!!! I decided to try Flexilace Seam Tape with a folded over hem. In retrospect, I’m glad Joann’s didn’t have the binding. The lace seam tape is practically invisible in the hems.

I considered using a small snap as a closure, but I was concerned that there just wasn’t enough to the seam tape and raschel knit to support snaps. I decided to use a jewelery pin as a closure. That way I can change my pin depending on what I’m wearing.

The sweater came out very well. I thought that the lacey knit would be hard to sew, but it wasn’t. I think anyone who has sewn a few knits could handle one easily.

New Look 6898 frontNew Look 6898 line dwgNew Look 6898 pattern piecesNew Look 6898 back

Category: General

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