Neefer Sews, Crochets, Crafts, Swims, and Blathers about Kids

Acorns to Oaktrees

February 28th, 2008 at 7:20 pm

A new jacket?

in: Sewing
Pattern & Fabric Plans

So did I use the stretch blue cord to make Burda Plus 401, a princess seam jacket, from Spring 2007? No. Of course not. Why would I follow thru on a plan?

Ready to fit
Ready to fit

I did follow my usual M.O. by tracing the pattern onto patternease. I sewed the patternease together for fitting purposes. I found that I needed a 4 inch (10 cm) full bust alteration (fba) in front. The armhole and back felt tight, but I didn’t do anything to alter them. My experience says that the armhole ALWAYS feels tight when I’m fitting with patternease, and I decided to trust my method of using my high bust measurement to choose my size.

princess pattern
Slash lines

I decided to attack the FBA like I would for adding a dart in a dartless top instead of trying to fiddle with the princess seams. In the end, it’s like fiddling with princess seams, but because I have to add so much (4 inches to each side!), the fiddling is too difficult.

So I took my assembled front and slashed as indicated in the image to the left. I opened up the front, adding the 4 inches that I needed in the vertical slash that was under the bust point. This adds fabric where I need it (aka boob area) w/o changing the size of the armhole and without changing the size or shape of the shoulder and neckline.

It didn’t work the way I had envisioned. I ended up with a very large center front panel and skinny looking side panels that arcked sharply back. I don’t have a picture, and I’m not going to try to draw it. Please, just take my word for it that it didn’t work.

I decided that taping the pieces back together would be easier than retracing.

princess pattern
Slash lines

Then I had to decided how I wanted to attack this alteration. 4 inches is a serious change in the pattern, and if that change isn’t placed correctly, I get a boob shape in the wrong place and not enough fabric over the boobs. I don’t really need added width. My boobs may be enormous, but they don’t hang under my arms. What I need is more depth in front (apex to armpit). So I decided to add 2 inches to each of the side princess seam panels. This worked really well.

Forgot to lengthen the facing

However, while I was fitting, I neglected to look at the front facing piece. Well, if you add length to the front, you have to add length to the front facing. And the above picture gives you an idea of how much I need to add. Oh, and I did it this way because I don’t really care what the inside of a garment looks like AND because I didn’t have enough of the correct weight interfacing to cut 2 more facings..

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