Original Pattern Piece
I compared the original pattern piece to my TNT KS t-shirt, and I need 1.5 more inches to get CF to center front. My boob apex (aka bust point) just barely made it onto the pattern piece. I added “tissue” below the bust point so that I could have a vertical cutting line. The next step is to slash the vertical line thru the bust point and almost to the armhole. You want to leave a little hinge at the armhole to rotate the pattern pieces. The final prep step is to slash from the side seam almost to the bust point, again, leaving a little hinge.
Slashed and Spread.
If I were going to use a traditional side dart, I would fill in the pink areas with “tissue”. The blue lines indicate approximately where I would put the new dart. I’d have to add dart legs to be sure to catch all of the dart in the side seam.
Final Pattern Piece
I did have to fill in the pink areas from the previous photo with “tissue”. Then I slashed thru the newly created horizontal(ish) dart to the bust point, leaving a little hinge, and slashed vertically under the translated bust point. When I closed the side dart, I got a little bitty dart under the bust point. I’m not going to bother sewing it, tucking it, or otherwise gathering it separate from handing the rest of the under boob gathering.
My only concern now is whether or not I should have shifted the bottom fullness more towards the center. Oh, well, we shall see. I’ve cut out the altered pattern.
This is a polyester knit from Joann’s. It’s pretty plasticky feeling, but it was cheap, and it’s good for a fitting toile.
It fits the bust really well. I like the neckline. Too bad it’s too small.
