Neefer Sews, Crochets, Crafts, Swims, and Blathers about Kids

Acorns to Oaktrees

September 11th, 2015 at 10:17 pm

Latest Sewing Project

in: Sewing
Fabric combo

I am still working my way through a pile of cotton pique that I pulled from my stash. The fabric is lovely. It is 100% cotton and feels very soft. Due to the weave, it has a stiff drape, and it doesn’t need ironing. Pique is kinda like seersucker in that the weave camoflauges wrinkles.

I decided to make a fitting toile of Petite Plus Patterns Jean Jacket. Years ago, I went to an ASG conference and took a class with the designer from PPP. She was fabulous; the class focused on fitting patterns on plus sized (short) women. I am not short at 5 feet 7 inches (170 cm), but she did not limit her discussion to just fitting short women. She also had a booth in the shopping area and brought along sample garments of all her patterns in all sizes, so that we could try them on. The size 18 seemed to fit well. I’m not quite as big as I was, so I measured, and I’m still an 18.

The pattern is multisized, so I traced. I am very rough on my patterns. The last time I tried to pinfit with a tissue pattern, I shredded it. I decided then to pretty much trace everything. The pinfit seemed fine. The pattern instructions indicated that I would need a 1 inch FBA (the smallest I’ve ever had to make), but I decided not to do it since I had tried on the jacket when I was a little larger.

For the first time ever, I cut out the pattern and basted it together sans facings, collar, cuffs, and waistband in order to check fit. Mostly, I was concerned about it being short. I’m short or maybe average from my hip to my shoulder. All of my height is in my legs. So usually, I have no height related fitting issues in tops, but I have to lengthen legs and shorten the front rise on pants and skirts. And lately, I seem to be choosing patterns that have small sleeves and high armholes. So, even tho this pattern is supposed to account for that, I was hesitant to put all the finish work involved in a jean jacket before checking the fit.

I am happy to say that the basted pattern fit. I have ripped out most of the basting and am ready to some sewing.

The pattern calls for 3 yards of fabric for all sizes. She lays the waistband crossgrain for cutting, and I think this is why she lists 3 yards. However, for my size, I had plenty of width on my 50-ish inch wide fabric to cut the waistband on grain. If the waistband had been too long to do that, I would have pieced it. Pique has texture to it that would have made the crossgrain waistband look odd. So, for size 18 (and 14 & 16), 2.5 yards of 50-ish inch wide fabric is plenty.

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