Neefer Sews, Crochets, Crafts, Swims, and Blathers about Kids

Acorns to Oaktrees

September 5th, 2015 at 9:37 pm

Binding an armhole

in: General
Bias Binding finish on an armhole
Bias Binding

My current favorite top pattern, Burda 7219, is a sleeveless top. The pattern calls for bias binding to finish the armholes. This suits me; I am not one of those designers who wants the inside of her garments to be as beautiful as the outside. The easiest way to bind the armholes with bias is to sew the bias to the armhole, turn the binding, and edge stitch the binding to secure it. The image to the left shows this finish on one of the fronts of my latest Burda 7219. What makes this method so easy is that the side seam is sewn AFTER the bias binding is applied. This makes for a lumpy finish where the side seam ends in the armpit. When I am wearing my top, people are not examining my seam finishes … well anywhere, and they most certainly aren’t examining my armpit.

You could apply the binding “in the round” after sewing the side seam on the top. It’s a little more fiddly. You can finish the bias with a clean finish by sewing the end of the bias tape to the beginning, or you could over lap the beginning of the bias and fold under the end like a seam allowance. The latter method isn’t a “clean finish”, but it is less fiddly.

Another option is to line the top. The neckline has a facing. It would be easy to extend that facing to the armholes.

If the fabric were a knit, I might simply turn the armhole hem allowance under and sew it down, but this pattern is for a woven. Wovens won’t turn under easily.

Category: General

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