Neefer Sews, Crochets, Crafts, Swims, and Blathers about Kids

Acorns to Oaktrees

April 5th, 2014 at 2:42 pm

Buttonholes on a buttondown with placket.

in: Sewing

So, before doing my buttonholes horizontally, I looked at some of DH’s RTW shirts. All the placket ones had vertical buttonholes. Hm. I consulted with my sewing friends and learned that buttonholes are vertical if you have a placket. So change of plans to a vertical buttonhole.

buttonholes copy
Buttonhole spacing

The most important consideration in buttonholes is the full bust level. Either there is a button there, or the shirt will gape. I was fortunate in this shirt. The button spacing worked out to 2 and 7/8 inches from buttonhole top to buttonhole top. 3 inches also would have worked, but I would either have had to left off the bottom button or skooch it up a bit. I decided I wanted even spacing. In the image to the right, the 3 inches goes from the top of the full bust button to the first set of marks that I laid down on the placket. I started with 3 inch spacing.

I did a lot of marking. I wanted to get the buttonholes in the middle of the placket, but like all my sewing, the placket is a tad irregular, making marking a single, true centerline difficult. Instead of marking the centerline, I marked 3/4 inches from either edge of the placket. This gave me a centerline between my marked lines. It turned out that the marking was about the same width as the buttonhole with stitching.

Closeup of marking

Finished shirt on ‘Tina

Since I had originally marked 3 inch spacing, when it came time to stitch, I put a pin in the actual top of the buttonhole mark. It would have been easy to get the 2 mixed up at the sewing machine.

What do you think of my buttons? They are (mostly) cube beads, but I thought they went very well with my fabric, especially with the echo of the pattern.

I’m pretty happy with it. The sleeves are a bit too small, and I’m not sure if that is the only problem in the sleeve/armscye area. I’m seeing sewing friends tomorrow, so hopefully, they will be able to tell me. Otherwise, I shall make another one with a larger sleeve and evaluate things from there.

Next up: Rose Hip Tights.

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