Neefer Sews, Crochets, Crafts, Swims, and Blathers about Kids

Acorns to Oaktrees

August 7th, 2013 at 10:13 pm

Moulage/Fitting Shell

in: Sewing
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Hm. According to Wikipedia, “Moulage is the art of applying mock injuries for the purpose of training Emergency Response Teams and other medical and military personnel. ” The dictionary disagrees; it says moulage is “1. the making of a mold, especially with plaster of Paris, of objects, footprints, tire tracks, etc., as for the purpose of identification. 2. the mold itself.”

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Kenneth King uses the word to describe a very closely fitting shell (aka a shirt that is an almost skin tight copy) that is used to create a dress form and custom fit patterns.

With the help of the fabulous Georgene, my sewing club made our own versions.

The instructions weren’t always easy to follow. It took us 4-5 hours to get the pattern down on the paper. I took my pattern home and constructed the shell, shown below on ‘tina. It was super easy to trace onto the muslin and super easy to sew up. I left myself 2 inch seam allowances and added 2 inches at the shoulders.

Do I have square shoulders or what?

I have square shoulders.
Check out my SQUARE shoulders

I took my pattern home and constructed the shell, shown below on ‘tina. It was super easy to trace onto the muslin and super easy to sew up. I left myself 2 inch seam allowances and added 2 inches at the shoulders.

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‘Tina is about 5 pounds smaller than I am, so I was thinking that the shell was pretty good. Let me tell you, in a skin tight woven outfit, 5 pounds and 10 years makes a big difference. I don’t think the moulage instructions take plus size fitting issues into account. There are probably other fitting issues as well, but I’m only aware of my own. For example, my waist is quite a bit smaller than my hips, but my circumference around my tummy is the same as that around my hips. All I can say is that I’m glad I had the 2 inch seam allowances at my tummy. OTOH, the draft did capture space for my fabulous ass.

The 2 inches I added at the shoulder was woefully inadequate. It would have been fine for my shoulder, but once we added a big ol’ bust dart, there wasn’t enough fabric to reach my shoulder. To be fair, I think there is an addendum to the moulage book that addresses full busts. I didn’t look at it.

Hopefully, soon, I will have some more images so you can see how close or far off the moulage draft was.

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